Skincare ingredients, explained in plain English

Hyaluronic acid

Also called: Sodium hyaluronate

A water magnet that hydrates without any heaviness.

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant: it attracts and holds water in the upper layers of the skin, so skin looks plumper and feels more comfortable. It's naturally found in the body, and different molecule sizes are used in skincare.

Good for

Dehydrated skinOily skin that feels tightAir-con dryness

Found in

Toners, essences, serums, sheet masks, gel-creams

How to use

Apply to damp skin, then seal with a moisturiser. In very dry air-con, a humectant on its own can leave skin feeling tight — the moisturiser on top matters.

Centella asiatica

Also called: Cica, gotu kola, madecassoside

The calming plant at the heart of Korean 'cica' skincare.

Centella asiatica — known as gotu kola, or bua bok in Thai — is a plant traditionally used across Asia for skin. Its compounds, such as madecassoside and asiaticoside, are prized for soothing redness and supporting a stressed skin barrier.

Good for

Sensitive and reactive skinRedness after sun or heatAcne-prone skin that's also irritated

Found in

Serums, creams, toner pads, sheet masks

How to use

Morning and night, as a toner, serum or cream. It plays well with almost everything.

Ceramides

The 'mortar' that holds your skin barrier together.

Ceramides are lipids that naturally make up a large part of the skin's outer barrier. Skincare ceramides help replenish that barrier, so skin holds on to water better and is less easily irritated.

Good for

Dry and flaky patchesOver-exfoliated skinSkin using retinoids

Found in

Moisturisers, barrier creams, some cleansers

How to use

Look for them in moisturisers. Use morning and night, especially after cleansing.

Panthenol

Also called: Pro-vitamin B5

A quiet, reliable soother and hydrator.

Panthenol helps skin hold on to water and feel calmer. It's a staple of soothing creams and after-sun products, and is also widely used in hair care for softness and shine.

Good for

Irritated or tight skinAfter sunDry hair

Found in

Calming creams, serums, after-sun gels, hair care

How to use

Use as often as you like — it's gentle and pairs with almost any ingredient.

Squalane

A featherweight oil that feels like nothing on the skin.

Squalane is a stable, lightweight emollient that mimics part of the skin's own oils. It softens skin and reduces water loss without the heaviness of richer oils.

Good for

Dry patchesNormal to combination skinFrizzy hair ends

Found in

Facial oils, moisturisers, hair oils

How to use

A few drops pressed in after serum, or mixed into moisturiser. On hair, warm a drop between palms and smooth over ends.

Aloe vera

The cooling classic for skin that's caught too much sun.

Aloe vera gel is soothing and hydrating, which is why it's the base of so many after-sun products. It feels especially good straight from the fridge after a long day outdoors.

Good for

After sunHeat-stressed skinLight hydration for oily skin

Found in

After-sun gels, soothing gels, light moisturisers

How to use

Smooth onto clean skin. Store in the fridge for extra cooling.

Aloe soothes mild sun-related discomfort but doesn't replace sunscreen or medical care for serious burns.

Niacinamide

Also called: Vitamin B3

The versatile all-rounder for oil, tone and texture.

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3. It's popular because it does several useful things at once: it helps regulate the look of oiliness, improves the appearance of uneven tone and enlarged pores, and supports the skin barrier.

Good for

Oily and combination skinUneven tone and post-acne marksLarge-looking pores

Found in

Serums, toners, moisturisers, sunscreens

How to use

After toner, before moisturiser, once or twice a day. Moderate strengths (around 2–5%) suit most people.

Very high concentrations can cause redness or flushing in some people. More isn't always better.

Vitamin C

Also called: Ascorbic acid and derivatives

An antioxidant for brightness — best in the morning, under sunscreen.

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps protect skin from environmental stress and improves the look of dullness and dark spots over time. Pure ascorbic acid is potent but unstable; gentler derivatives are easier to tolerate.

Good for

DullnessDark spots and uneven toneDaytime antioxidant support

Found in

Serums, ampoules, brightening creams

How to use

In the morning after cleansing, followed by moisturiser and sunscreen.

Pure vitamin C oxidises — if a clear serum turns dark orange or brown, it's past its best. Strong formulas can tingle; start every other day.

Licorice root

Also called: Glycyrrhiza glabra

A gentle botanical brightener that also calms.

Licorice root extract is used to even out the look of skin tone and to calm redness. It's a common choice in Korean and Japanese brightening products for sensitive skin.

Good for

Sensitive skin with uneven tonePost-acne marksRedness

Found in

Brightening serums, toners, essences

How to use

Morning and night in serums or toners.

AHAs

Also called: Glycolic, lactic and mandelic acid

Water-soluble acids that smooth texture and boost glow.

Alpha hydroxy acids loosen the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface, leaving skin smoother and brighter. Glycolic is the strongest and fastest-acting; lactic and mandelic are gentler.

Good for

Rough textureDullnessUneven tone

Found in

Toners, exfoliating serums, wash-off peels, body lotions

How to use

Start two or three evenings a week. Don't combine with retinoids on the same night at first.

AHAs make skin more sensitive to the sun. Daily sunscreen is essential — especially in Thailand.

BHA (salicylic acid)

The oil-soluble exfoliant that gets into pores.

Salicylic acid can dissolve into oil, so it works inside pores as well as on the skin's surface. That makes it a go-to for blackheads, clogged pores and breakouts in oily skin.

Good for

Blackheads and clogged poresOily, acne-prone skinBumpy texture

Found in

Cleansers, toners, spot treatments, body washes

How to use

In a cleanser daily, or a leave-on toner/serum two to four times a week.

Can be drying. If you're pregnant or breastfeeding, check with your doctor about leave-on salicylic acid.

Tea tree

Also called: Melaleuca alternifolia

A traditional choice for blemish-prone skin.

Tea tree oil is widely used in products for blemish-prone skin and oily scalps, often alongside salicylic acid.

Good for

Occasional blemishesOily scalp

Found in

Spot treatments, cleansers, scalp shampoos

How to use

Use in finished products as directed — never apply undiluted essential oil to skin.

Can irritate sensitive skin. Patch-test first.

Retinol & retinoids

Also called: Vitamin A derivatives

The most researched ingredient for fine lines and texture.

Retinoids speed up skin cell turnover and support collagen over time, which helps with fine lines, texture and some types of breakouts. Retinol is a gentler, over-the-counter form.

Good for

Fine linesRough textureEarly signs of sun-related ageing

Found in

Night serums and creams

How to use

At night, a pea-sized amount for the whole face, two or three nights a week at first. Increase slowly as your skin adjusts.

Expect some dryness at first. Always pair with daily sunscreen. Avoid during pregnancy and breastfeeding unless your doctor says otherwise.

Zinc oxide & mineral filters

Gentle mineral UV filters — often suited to sensitive skin.

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are mineral UV filters. Zinc oxide offers broad protection across UVA and UVB and tends to be well tolerated by sensitive skin.

Good for

Sensitive skinChildren's sunscreensAnyone who finds chemical filters sting their eyes

Found in

Mineral and hybrid sunscreens, cushion compacts

How to use

As your sunscreen, generously, as the last morning step. Reapply when outdoors.

Some mineral sunscreens leave a white cast, especially on deeper skin tones. Tinted versions help.

Snail mucin

Also called: Snail secretion filtrate

A Korean-skincare classic for bouncy, hydrated skin.

Snail secretion filtrate is a slippery, gel-like ingredient that contains naturally occurring hydrators. It's loved in Korean skincare for leaving skin dewy and comfortable, and is often used in essences.

Good for

Dehydrated skinDull skinPost-sun comfort

Found in

Essences, serums, creams, sheet masks

How to use

Use as an essence or serum after toner. Its texture layers easily under a moisturiser.

Not suitable if you avoid animal-derived ingredients. As with anything new, patch-test first.

Rice extract & rice ferment

Also called: Oryza sativa

Japan's and Korea's beloved ingredient for soft, luminous skin.

Rice has a long history in East Asian beauty — rice-water rinses are a traditional ritual. In modern skincare, rice extracts and ferments are used for hydration and a softer, more even-looking complexion.

Good for

DullnessDry or dehydrated skinSensitive skin wanting a gentle option

Found in

Toners, cleansing foams, creams, masks

How to use

Usually found in toners, cleansers and creams — use as directed, morning and night.

Propolis

A honey-like ingredient for glow and comfort.

Propolis is a resin-like substance collected by bees. Korean skincare uses propolis extract for a healthy-looking glow and for comforting skin that's prone to the odd blemish.

Good for

Dull skinCombination skin with occasional blemishes

Found in

Ampoules, serums, toners

How to use

Morning and night as a serum or ampoule.

Avoid if you're allergic to bee products. Patch-test first.

Green tea

Also called: Camellia sinensis

An antioxidant favourite for oily, stressed skin.

Green tea is rich in antioxidant polyphenols. In skincare it's used to calm and refresh skin and is often found in products for oily and combination skin.

Good for

Oily skinSkin stressed by heat and pollution

Found in

Toners, serums, gel-creams, cleansers

How to use

In toners, serums and creams, morning and night.

Mugwort

Also called: Artemisia

A traditional Korean herb for calm, comfortable skin.

Mugwort has a long history in Korean traditional remedies. In skincare it's used to soothe and comfort sensitive or irritated skin.

Good for

Sensitive skinRednessSkin recovering from irritation

Found in

Essences, toners, wash-off masks

How to use

As an essence, toner or mask.

Tamarind

Also called: Makham

A Thai kitchen staple and a classic body-scrub ingredient.

Tamarind pulp naturally contains fruit acids, which is why it has long been used in Thai scrubs and masks for smoother, brighter-looking skin.

Good for

Rough skin on the bodyDull skin

Found in

Thai body scrubs, soaps, masks

How to use

In body scrubs once or twice a week, rinsed off well.

Fruit acids can sting broken or sunburned skin. Use sunscreen after exfoliating.

Turmeric

Also called: Khamin chan

The golden root of Thai and South Asian beauty rituals.

Turmeric has been part of beauty rituals across Southeast and South Asia for centuries. Its main compound, curcumin, is an antioxidant, and turmeric is traditionally used for a healthy-looking glow.

Good for

Dull skinBody scrubs and soaps

Found in

Thai soaps, scrubs, masks

How to use

In wash-off products and scrubs, rinsed thoroughly.

Turmeric can temporarily stain skin, nails and towels yellow.

Butterfly pea flower

Also called: Anchan

The vivid blue flower of Thai hair care.

Butterfly pea (dok anchan) is a Thai garden flower rich in blue anthocyanin pigments. It's traditionally used in Thai hair rinses and remains a favourite in herbal shampoos and conditioners.

Good for

Thai herbal hair careAntioxidant-rich botanical blends

Found in

Herbal shampoos, conditioners, hair tonics

How to use

In shampoos and hair rinses, as directed on the pack.

Lemongrass

Also called: Takrai

The fresh, zesty scent of a Thai spa.

Lemongrass is used in Thai body care mostly for its bright, refreshing scent. It's a signature note in Thai spa products, scrubs, soaps and home fragrance.

Good for

Body care and bath productsHome fragrance

Found in

Scrubs, soaps, body washes, room sprays

How to use

In wash-off products, body care and scents.

Fragrant essential oils can irritate sensitive skin — patch-test and avoid around the eyes.

Jasmine

Also called: Mali

Thailand's best-loved flower, mostly there for the scent.

Jasmine (dok mali) is deeply woven into Thai culture — from garlands to Mother's Day. In beauty products it's used mainly for its soft, sweet scent.

Good for

Fragrance and home scentsBody mists and lotions

Found in

Body mists, perfumes, lotions, room sprays

How to use

In fragrances, mists and body care.

As with any fragrance, sensitive skin may prefer to keep jasmine away from the face.