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Ingredient Education

Centella Asiatica (Cica), Explained

The calming plant at the heart of Korean 'cica' skincare. What it does, who it suits, and how to fit it into a routine.

Novolle Beauty team2 min read

Centella leaves with water droplets

Key takeaways

  • Centella asiatica is a plant — also called gotu kola, or bua bok in Thai.
  • It's prized for soothing redness and supporting a stressed skin barrier.
  • It's gentle enough to use morning and night alongside most actives.
  • 'Cica' on a label is shorthand for centella-based calming products.

If you've spent any time in a Korean skincare aisle, you'll have seen 'cica' everywhere — on creams, serums, toner pads and sheet masks. Cica is shorthand for centella asiatica, a plant that has been used in traditional remedies across Asia for a very long time. In Thailand it's known as bua bok, and you may even have seen it as a drink.

Round green centella leaves covered in raindrops
Centella's round leaves — known as bua bok in Thailand.

What centella does for skin

Centella contains compounds — including madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid — that are prized in skincare for calming and comforting the skin. It's widely used for:

  • Redness and irritation after sun, heat or over-exfoliation.
  • Supporting a stressed skin barrier, so skin feels less tight and reactive.
  • Breakout-prone skin that's also sensitive, where harsher treatments sting.
  • Recovery — many people use cica products after procedures, as advised by their clinic.

Who it suits

Centella is about as gentle as active ingredients get, which is why it's a staple for sensitive skin. It's also useful for acne-prone skin that's red and irritated, and for anyone whose skin is stressed by Bangkok's heat, sun and humidity.

How to use it

  1. 1

    Choose a format

    Toners and toner pads for a light layer, serums for a concentrated dose, creams to finish.

  2. 2

    Apply morning and night

    After cleansing and toning, before moisturiser and sunscreen.

  3. 3

    Pair freely

    Centella works well with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, ceramides and panthenol.

  4. 4

    Use it as a reset

    If your skin is irritated, pause strong actives and use centella and a moisturiser alone for a week or two.

A dropper bottle of calming serum
Cica serums are some of our most-requested products for red, reactive skin.

Reading 'cica' labels

On the labelWhat it means
Centella asiatica extractThe whole-plant extract
MadecassosideA purified active compound from centella
AsiaticosideAnother centella compound
Cica / CICAMarketing shorthand — check the ingredient list for which form
Tiger grassA nickname for centella used by some brands

Any downsides?

Centella is well tolerated by most people, but no ingredient suits everyone, and some cica products include fragrance or other botanicals that can irritate. If your skin is very reactive, choose short, fragrance-free ingredient lists and patch-test first.

Find centella in our skincare edit and Korean beauty collection, or read the ingredient glossary.

Shop this guide

This guide is general information, not medical advice. Patch-test new products, and see a doctor or dermatologist about persistent skin problems.

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Centella leaves with water droplets

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